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Why a Mound System?Septic tanks with gravity flow leachfields have been used for many years in areas not served by public sewers. Unfortunately, not all soil and site conditions are well suited for these conventional systems. To protect public health and water quality, alternative systems are often used in areas where conventional systems cannot assure safe sewage treatment. The mound system is one alternative, which provides:
A typical mound system has three working parts:
The Septic TankThe typical septic tank is a large buried container made of concrete, fiberglass or polyethylene. Wastewater from your home flows into the tank. Heavy solids settle to the bottom where bacterial action partially decomposes them. Most of the lighter solids, such as fats and grease, rise to the top and form a scum layer. The wastewater leaving the septic tank is a liquid called effluent. It has been partially treated but still contains disease-causing bacteria and other pollutants. From the tank, the effluent flows by gravity to the pump chamber.
Proper Care Includes: 1. Inspecting your septic tank once every year and pumping it when needed. If the tank is not pumped periodically, solids escaping from the septic tank will clog the pump and mound. Using a garbage disposal will increase the amount of solids entering the tank and require more frequent pumping. 2. Avoiding the flushing of harmful material into the septic tank. Never put grease, newspapers, paper towels, cigarettes, coffee grounds, sanitary napkins, solvents, oils, paint, and pesticides into the tank. For information on the proper disposal of hazardous household waste, call the Recycle Hotline, 1-800-RECYCLE. 3. Avoiding the use of any type of chemical or biological septic tank additive. Additives do not improve the performance of the tank. They do not reduce the need for routine pumping, and some are even harmful to the system The Pump ChamberThe pump chamber is a concrete, fiberglass or polyethylene container that collects the septic tank effluent. The chamber contains a pump, pump control floats, and a high-water alarm float. The control floats are adjustable and are set for pumping a specific volume of effluent. When the effluent rises to the level of the "ON" float, the pump starts delivering the effluent to the mound. The pump lowers the effluent level to the "OFF" float and stops.
The pump discharge pipe should have a union or other quick disconnect coupler for easy removal of the pump. A piece of nylon rope or other non-corrodible material should be attached to the pump for taking the pump in and out of the chamber. Proper Care Includes: 1. Checking the pump chamber, pump and floats every year and replacing or repairing worn or broken parts. Pump maintenance should follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Check electrical parts and conduits for corrosion. If the alarm panel has a "push-to-test" button, it should be checked regularly. 2. Installing a septic tank effluent filter or pump screen, if your system does not have one. Screening or filtering the septic tank effluent provides an effective way of preventing solids from clogging the pump and pipes. Inspecting a screen or filter, and cleaning when necessary is quick and easy, and prevents costly damage from solids entering the mound system. 3. Taking action to protect the mound after a prolonged power outage or pump failure. Effluent will continue to collect in the chamber until the pump resumes operation. With additional effluent in the pump chamber, the pump may deliver a volume greater than the mound can handle. If all of the reserve storage inside the chamber is used, the plumbing in your home can backup. When the pump is off for more than 6 hours, the following measures can be taken to help protect the mound:
The MoundThe mound is a drainfield that is raised above the natural soil surface in a specific sand fill material. Within the sand fill is a gravel-filled bed with a network of small diameter pipes. Septic tank effluent is pumped through the pipes in controlled doses to insure uniform distribution throughout the bed. The effluent leaves the pipes under low pressure through small diameter holes, and trickles downward through the gravel and into the sand. Treatment of the effluent occurs as it moves through the sand and into the natural soil. Every new mound is required to have a designated replacement area. This area is similar to the size of your existing mound. It must be maintained should the existing system need an addition or repair.
Proper Care Includes: 1. Knowing where your system and replacement area are located and protecting them. Before you plant a garden, construct a building, or install a pool, check on the location of your system and replacement area. 2. Practicing water conservation and balancing your water use throughout the week to keep from overloading the system. The more wastewater you produce, the more the mound must treat and dispose. 3. Diverting water from surfaces such as roofs, driveways, or patios away from the mound and replacement area. The entire mound is graded to provide for runoff. Place structures, ditches, and driveways far enough away so that water movement from the mound is not disrupted. 4. Keeping traffic, such as vehicles, heavy equipment, or livestock off your mound and replacement area. The pressure can compact the soil or damage pipes. 5. Landscaping your mound properly. Do not place impermeable materials over your mound or replacement area. Materials, such as concrete or plastic reduce evaporation and the supply of oxygen to the soil needed for proper effluent treatment. Grass is the best cover for the mound. 6. Inspecting the mound and downslope areas for odors, wet spots, or surfacing sewage periodically. Check your system's inspection pipes regularly to see if there is a liquid level continually over 6 inches. This may be an early indication of a problem. Call Gullett Sanitation for assistance. What if the Alarm Goes On?If for any reason the effluent level inside the pump chamber reaches the alarm float (faulty pump, floats, circuit, or another problem), the alarm light and buzzer will start. By using water conservatively (avoid baths, showers, and clothes washing), the reserve storage in the pump chamber should allow you enough time to get the problem corrected. To silence the alarm, push the reset light on the alarm panel. Before calling for service or repair, check to see if the problem could be: 1. A tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse. The pump should have a separate circuit with its own breaker or fuse. If it's on a circuit with other equipment, that equipment can cause the breaker to trip. 2. A pump or float switch power cord plug that has come unplugged. If electrical connections are the plug-in type, be sure switch and pump plugs are making good contact in their outlet. 3. Control floats tangled by other parts in the chamber such as the electric power cord, lifting rope, or pump screen. Be sure floats operate freely in the chamber. 4. Debris on floats and support cable that is causing the pump to switch off. Lift the floats out of the chamber and clean.
Do not enter the pump chamber. Gases inside pump chambers are poisonous and the lack of oxygen can be fatal. If the problem cannot be located with the above steps, call your pump service person or on-site system installer for service or repair. The service of pumps and other electrical equipment must be done by an experienced person. Additional InformationFor more information on septic-system care, inspection and maintenance, call Gullett Sanitation
Service Inc. at 513-734-2227 or Email us at:
dangullett@gullettsanitation.com with questions or comments. |
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The
following information will help you understand your mound system, and keep it operating
safely at the lowest possible cost.
The high-water alarm
float in the pump chamber starts an alarm to warn you of any pump or system malfunction.
The float is set to start when the effluent in the pump chamber rises above the
"ON" float. The alarm should consist of a buzzer and an easily visible light. It
should be on an electrical circuit separate from the pump.